How to Get Started
What to Buy
Your Basic Uniform
Accoutrements
Needed for Infantry
To Complete Your "Kit"
Care and Feeding of the Uniform and Equipment
Military and Camp Life
Rations and How to Cook
Frying Pans (links to an Adobe PDF file)
Sutlers (vendors)
A word of caution that you will see repeated throughout this document:
be very careful when purchasing your uniform and equipments. Unfortunately
many of the goods available on the market today are JUNK! Make SURE
you know what you are buying. Even if you don't think you have any
questions, ASK BEFORE YOU BUY! Inaccurate or incorrect items will
not be allowed on the field! You are encouraged to buy QUALITY items.
They may cost more to start with but are more authentic and will probably
last longer.
Because bootees take the longest to receive we recommend you order these first, well ahead of the time you wish to use them. They also have to be broken in gradually for personal comfort. If you wear glasses these will be equal in importance to the shoes. Period frames can be acquired in antique shops or from a specialty sutler. They should have straight bows and no nose piece other than what is required to hold the glasses together across the bridge of the nose. Once frames are found, an optician can mount lenses in them and you will be all set.
The next clothing should be trousers and braces along with drawers that can be ordered through the Quartermaster along with the other period reproduction items. Once you have cap, bootees, glasses (if needed), trousers, braces and drawers, you should acquire the other recommended items on the list as soon as time and budget allow.
The forage cap is the first item people notice, purchase a quality cap from Brad Keune (pronounced "coin") or one of the other top quality vendors (do not buy a Jarnigan cap). Outside - dark blue wool with no weave visible, chin strap and visor should be black painted leather. Inside - painted cloth or leather sweatband and polished cotton lining in brown or black color. The preference is for no hat brass - however, an infantry soldier may wear a brass letter "A" (nothing more). No corps badge.
A quality period slouch hat is optional for campaign/field wear. The forage cap MUST be worn for "formal" activities such as inspection, parade, etc. Hat should be made of fine wool felt and be black (preferable) or dark brown or dark gray. Must have sweatband of cotton duck or leather, a sewn edge binding and silk hat ribbon. Once you purchase your quality hat (Tim Allen is one of the best vendors), look at old photos to determine how the hat should be worn. The correct look is one of being rather disheveled!
Four button fatigue blouse; again, correct fabric inside and out and it should have hand-sewn buttonholes. Avoid the inexpensive sacks made from inferior fabric. Lined sacks are encouraged as approximately 75% of the originals were lined. Correct for infantry and artillery.
Used for formal events such as dress parade, etc. Was also worn in the field. Look for correct fabric and construction.
May be used for artillery impression. Many artillerymen wore sacks and they are equally authentic.
As with other uniform coats, should be proper construction, fabric, buttons and buttonholes.
Every soldier should have a correct flannel (wool) federal issue shirt with paper backed tin buttons. In addition, you may have a correct period civilian shirt. Buttons on civilian shirts must be bone, mother-of-pearl or paper backed tin. NO wooden buttons - they are wrong unless you are doing a slave or "contraband" impression.
Cloth, leather or CORRECT period elastic (be careful here - most elastic are incorrect, also they would have been in the minority). Braces from most sutlers are incorrect. The most common were poor boys (cloth, attaching to the four trouser buttons).
Sky blue kersey (wool), infantry pattern (optional - mounted pattern for artillery) with hand sewn buttonholes, correct cut and construction, paper backed tin buttons.
Can be army issue or civilian as many soldiers received these from home. Should be made of canton flannel or plain cotton. Should have ties at cuffs. Some soldiers did shorten their drawers, particularly in warm weather. Issue drawers should have the tin backed buttons.
Military issue, black leather, either hand-sewn or pegged soles. Black leather laces. Heel plates optional but highly recommended.
All natural (wool or cotton), earth tones, correct style purchased from quality vendor (Mickey Black is excellent) or home-made. Avoid modern ragg wool.
White cotton (order from Quartermaster) for dress occasions. Heavy gloves or mittens (optional) - soldiers had heavier gloves or mittens for cold weather use. To the best of our knowledge these were not issued and were primarily sent from home. They would have been hand knit wool (½ fingers for gloves). Leather and other types of material were not used and therefore are not allowed. Also, as with socks, avoid the popular modern ragg wool style, they are not correct.
NOTE on corps badges: Since we are doing an 1862 infantry
impression, no corps badges are allowed on hats, blouses or elsewhere (corps
badges were introduced in 1863). If you are doing strictly an artillery
impression, a corps badge may be acceptable. If you do both, go without
unless you have separate hats,
blouses.
Model 1851 black leather with leather keeper or Model 1856 with brass keeper.US Oval Belt Plate:
Brass with lead backing, 1-7/8" wide.Haversack:
Military issue black painted canvas with inner bag made of lighter weight canvas. Inside buttons should be bone. Strap should be shortened to allow carrying haversack at correct height (top of haversack should be about at elbow level.Canteen:
Model 1858 smooth-side tin; although several cover colors are accurate, dark blue, brown or gray jean cloth, is recommended. Jute or cotton cord is correct for the stopper cord (no chain - chains came later in the War) and it must have the correct russet leather (oiled - not blackened) strap. Should be carried at same height as haversack.Tin Cup:
Caution: there are many canteens on the market and some are absolute garbage; check with the Quartermaster before you buy. A good quality tin canteen will last for years if properly cared for. We recommend you do not buy a stainless steel canteen.
Either military or civilian is fine, as long as the cup is tin and has a bottom that is not recessed. Adding a wire bail is a nice touch (add your own as opposed to buying it with). Carry the cup inside your haversack.Tin Plate or canteen half:
We suggest a good, high quality tin plate from a recommended supplier; the old pie plates just don't do it. Tin only - No stainless or aluminum.Utensils:
Use correct period civilian style (bone or wood handles on knife and fork - 3 tined forks) or issue style (stamped out of sheet iron, four tined forks).Boiler (optional):
A boiler made from a used correct (modern tin can is wrong) tin vegetable can with wire attached for a bail was sometimes carried in lieu of a tin cup.Fry pans (optional - limited):
They were carried but not by every soldier. A common practice was for a soldier to carry one to be shared by his comrades or the members of his mess. See separate page on fry pans.Other:
To complete the "mess kit" a soldier will want to have several tins and pokes to carry rations, salt, sugar and other various items. If you choose to carry glass bottles, make sure they are of a period style and are closed with a cork stopper.
NOTE: "Muckets" are to be heavily discouraged. There
is little documentation of their use and the veteran would not have carried
both a mucket and a cup or boiler.
Black model 1855 box with inner pouch and tins. The .69 caliber elongated ball cartridge box is encouraged. Also, cartridge box plate and a cartridge box sling with an eagle breastplate. A quality cartridge box will give years of service.Cap Box:
Black model 1850 with inner flap and nipple pick.Bayonet Scabbard:
Model 1858 with two copper rivets for the .58 caliber.Musket Sling (optional):
Natural leather for the Enfield musket. Oil, do not blacken.Bayonet:
Socket bayonet for Enfield rifled musket. NOTE: Many repro bayonets and scabbards are too long. Some may not mount on musket without hand work. Make sure the length of the bayonet and scabbard is correct and that they "fix" and "unfix" correctly before going into the field with them. Sgt Wakefield can assist with this problem.Musket:
Three-band Enfield; we recommend either Euroarms or Parker Hale. Must be in the white (bright - all bluing and case hardening hues removed). Also, if your rifle musket has a stock finish other than oil (e.g. polyurethane), it must be removed. Remove all "Made in Italy" and other modern markings. Purists will want to replace the barrel bands with correct ones. You can do this work yourself or send out to a person that specializes in "de-farbing" the Enfield.
Some events may mandate a US Army issue blanket, so we recommend you have one. Color should be a dirty grayish (or mouse) brown with a dark brown stripe across each end. There was some color variation on blankets. Ends need to be unfinished and there should be a "US" embroidered in the middle in correct fashion. Some excellent repros of original blankets are now available. The group has recently decided on the Abraham Thomas blanket from Quartermaster Woolens. This blanket should be accepted anywhere. We know that states also issued blankets (some were red) and a soldier may have gotten one from home. As with all other equipment - talk to the Quartermaster before ordering.Poncho or Gum Blanket:
Black rubberized cloth. This item can also be purchased in kit form, which can make a very acceptable item; look for very small brass eyelets. Jarnigan is currently a good source.Shelter Half:
Military issue, natural color cotton duck. Make sure you have the correct (early war) half! It should have hand-sewn buttonholes and bone buttons. Hemlock member Eric Hector is now producing an excellent shelter half. No metal stakes (must use wood). A soldier would not have carried metal stakes.Knapsack:
Federal issue double bag knapsack. Look for a QUALITY knapsack!Other Recommended Items
Pocket knife, housewife, candle, correct matches in period container, writing supplies, bible, cards, etc.Specifically not allowed:
Hay bales (if hay is correct for an impression, open the bales and pile or spread the hay), lanterns, camp furniture (exception for officers) or other inappropriate impedimenta in an infantry campaign camp.We CANNOT emphasize this enough:
Before you order, talk with the Quartermaster or others in the group for guidance. There is a lot of junk and just plain incorrect items out there. Don't let yourself be ripped off. If you can afford the luxury of hand-sewn buttonholes, go for it. Consider having a seamstress convert your machine-made buttonholes to hand-sewn. It improves your impression and if you are serious it will save you money in the long run.
If you wish to carry items other than those listed here - be
careful! Make sure the item you wish to carry is a period item and
is something that has been documented to have been carried by a soldier.
Remember, most of the fresh fish carried far too much gear. After
the first or second serious march, that impedimenta was scattered along
the march route. That would be a great impression but I doubt many
of you will want to discard personal belongings. The best thing to
do is ASK first!
The Hemlocks maintain a small stock of equipment that can be borrowed
by new members who are not yet fully equipped. Contact the Quartermaster
for more information.
One of the least glamorous and perhaps least understood aspects of historical recreation is the care and upkeep of one's uniform, rifle-musket, and equipage. Authenticity-minded historical enthusiasts will find that such care and maintenance often becomes a balance between protecting an investment using modern techniques and materials and duplicating the cleaning habits (or lack of them) of our martial ancestors.
Cleaning the standard Civil War rifle-musket was a simple if messy operation. Private Edward Wightman of the Ninth New York Volunteers remembered:
"Our spare time is generally spent scrubbing up equipments. Rifles are atomized, screw drivers, emery paper, buckskin, oil, etc. brought into requisition as a mass [detail] got up on short notice comparable with house cleaning. Daubs of rust and dust get in your nose, and your hands become coal-colored when there is no water to wash [with]. In some circumstances, one feels as if he had been dipped in cobwebs" (Longacre, ed., From Antietam to Fort Fisher, p. 58).
Manuals of the period preserved the recommended fashion for cleaning the piece in the field:
"It is not essential for the musket to be dismounted every time that it is cleaned . . . it can be perfectly cleaned as follows: Put a piece of rag or soft leather on the top of the cone, let the hammer down upon it: pour a gill [four ounces] of water into the muzzle carefully, so that it does not run down the outside: put a plug of wood [not tompion!] into the muzzle, and shake the gun up and down, changing the water repeatedly until it runs clear. Then withdraw the leather and stand the musket on the muzzle a few moments, then wipe out the barrel [by screwing the wiper, sometimes erroneously referred to as the "worm," onto the end of the ramrod and putting a piece of dry cloth or tow around it, sufficient to prevent it from chafing the grooves of the barrel: wipe the barrel quite dry, changing . . . the cloth two or three times], and also wiper the exterior of the lock and the outside of the barrel around the cone [sometimes erroneously referred to as the "nipple"] and cone-seat, first with a damp rag, then with a dry one, and lastly with a rag that has been lightly oiled. In this way, all the dirt from firing may be removed without taking out a screw. If, however, the hammer works stiffly or grates upon the tumbler, the lock must be immediately taken off and the parts cleaned and touched with oil" (Rules for the Management and Cleaning of the Rifle Musket, Model 1855, 1862, p. 24).
Consider the experience of Leander Stillwell, 61st Illinois, who commenced to clean his musket in a soggy bivouac while en route to Bolivar, Tennessee, mid-July, 1862. He wrote:
"We were required to keep all the metal parts (except the butt-plate) as bright and shining as silver dollars. I have put in many an hour working on my gun [an Austrian rifle-musket] with an old rag and powdered dirt, and a corn cob, or pine stick, polishing the barrel, the bands, lockplate and trigger-guard until they were fit to pass inspection. The inside of the barrel we would keep clean by the use of a greased wiper and plenty of hot water. In doing this, we would ordinarily, with our screwdrivers, take the gun to pieces, and remove from the stock all metal pieces. . . . We soon learned to take care of our pieces in a rain by thoroughly greasing them with a piece of bacon, which would largely prevent rust from striking in" (Stillwell, The Story of a Common Soldier pp. 90-91).
Practical experience has shown that the use of very hot water will allow
the barrel interior to dry quickly, and without rust. It is recommended
that the barrel be "oiled" as stated above after each cleaning. Metal parts
should be cleaned with "fine flour of emery-cloth" (Rules for the Management
and Cleaning of the Rifle Musket, Model 1855, 1862, p. 23) and also given
a light coat of oil. Avoid the use of modern gun lubricants (nothing smells
so much like a petroleum-based product than these lubricants), using instead
sweet oil, beef tallow or bacon fat sparingly, in the manner of the original
soldiers. Don't forget to clean the ramrod, taking care to clean the head
end (sometimes erroneously referred to as the "tulip"). as well as the
threaded end. Similarly, the bayonet should be cleaned with emery-cloth
and lightly coated with oil or cooking grease. And if for whatever
reason, you cannot achieve machine-shop perfection in the cleaning of your
rifle musket, consider the exchange between a soldier of the 21st Massachusetts
and a regular of Syke's V Corps on the march near Fox's Gap, Maryland,
September 15, 1862. As the dusty V Corps men marched by, the Massachusetts
soldier remarked (quite out loud) that he didn't see any difference between
a regular and a volunteer. A sergeant of the Regulars stepped out of the
column and shoved his "polished and spotless musket" into the man's face
and growled. "Here's where the difference comes in!" The New Englander
glanced at the piece but a moment, then remarked. "Yes, we use ours to
fight with" (Priest, Before Antietam: The Battle for South Mountain p.
331). (A special note: never replace your bayonet into its scabbard
after you have fired with the bayonet fixed. Clean it first. By replacing
it in the scabbard without cleaning, you will be coating the inside of
your scabbard with powder fouling, which you can never get out, and the
acidic fouling will promote an instantly rusty bayonet.)
There are several reasons for this, not the least of which was the fact that four pounds of soap per one hundred men (or a whopping 0.64 of an ounce per man) was the regulation issue per day. This was issued along with other "small rations" of salt, rice, beans, and candles . . . usually when the men were in more permanent camp. It is important to note that soap, along with beans, rice, and candles were frequently not issued while on active campaign (Billings, p. 112). This doesn't mean that soldiers didn't have soap. Rather, their meager supplies were probably not replaced during periods of activity. Evidence of this can be seen in the October 6, 1862, letter of Private Edward K. Wightman, 9th New York Volunteers, who wrote his mother and sisters from Maryland:
"Our washing at present is of little consequence, as we have with us only the clothing on our backs. A ration of soap, however, is given out once a week, and every Saturday we wade into Antietam Creek and play washerwoman. Our under clothing then and there receives a thorough scrubbing. The quantity of lather and the energy of wringing would raise the eyebrows to the roots of your hair with astonishment. When the washing is done, we 'go ashore' and hanging the 'pieces' on bushes or spreading them out on the grass, sit patiently in the shade till they are dry. In better times, when we have our baggage, a Sunday inspection compels the men to show a clean suit on their person and another in their knapsack" (Longacre. From Antietam to Fort Fisher p. 53).
How often did Civil War soldiers wash their clothes? Circumstances and
situations of weather, water, soap, and time render any pronouncement on
this point nearly impossible. One indication is available from the journal
of Sergeant Samuel Clear, Company K, 116th Pennsylvania. He recorded receiving
a new (and presumably clean) issue of at least a "new blouse and Pants"
[sic] on Thursday, October 6, 1864. The next entry in which he recorded
any washing of clothes was Tuesday, October 18, 1864: "Sent all the boys
on fatigue this morning. I washed my clothes" (Menge and Shimrak, eds.,
The Civil War ebook of Daniel Chisholm pp. 42, 44). This twelve day stint
translates into one going five or six modern event weekends without washing
one's clothing. Your uniform is an investment. And while you may
not wear it as often as our Civil War ancestors, neither do you have the
luxury of drawing new items against a clothing allowance. Sergeant Clear's
issue previous to the one mentioned October 6, 1864, was August 13, 1864,
a wear-out period during active campaigning of approximately eight weeks.
Shirts, stockings, handkerchiefs, and haversack liners are items that easily
lend themselves rather easily to a "washday in camp"
scenario. In fact, whenever you launder shirts and any other hand-sewn
items, you should always wash it by hand. While this takes a little longer,
washing by hand will preserve your clothing longer than will the harsher
treatment of machine laundering. And don't worry about drying your clothing
in the sun with its resulting fading. You want your clothing to fade naturally,
as this was an unavoidable reality for our ancestor's uniforms. Further,
such fading greatly improves the period "look" of your overall
impression.
Washing of woolen items, including your wool-flannel issue shirt, is
a trickier proposition. Shrinkage is the enemy, although we
probably have each attended enough soggy encampments to render most
shrinkage concerns moot. Regardless, a careful dry-cleaning of your woolen
items at least once per season (although not "authentic") is probably a
wise step towards conserving your investment. Be sure to request no creases
in your trousers from the dry cleaner. Military trouser creases weren't
in vogue until well after the Civil War. [Editors' Note Another approach
is to avoid dry cleaning altogether by brushing the dirt from soiled woolens.
When uniforms become intolerably dirty, consider hand washing these as
well with mild soap in cold water and then hanging to air dry. Avoid drying
in the hot sun or by a camp fire to avoid undue shrinkage.]
Confirming this reality are accounts by Corporal Frederick Pettit and
Samuel Clear. Pettit, a corporal in Company C, 100th
Pennsylvania, wrote on September 6, 1863, from Crab Orchard, Kentucky:
"It is Sunday and . . . this morning we had inspection at nine o'clock.
At these inspections, we are required to have our brass, iron, steels,
and leather all brightly polished" (William Gavin, ed., Infantryman Pettit
p. 105). Samuel Clear kept a running account of such details in his journal.
It was a rare Sunday when Sergeant Clear failed to record the phrase "had
the usual inspection."
Cleaning and polishing leather goods was required by Army Regulations.
Such requirements presumed the use of a wax-based
compound colored with lamp-black called "blacking" (what else?). A
similar compound known as "black ball" was known and used in the mid-18th
Century. Certainly blacking was available in many commercial preparations.
However, our Civil War ancestors are not so free with information on where
they obtained cleaning and/or polishing materials like blacking. Even the
uniform and equipage listing for the best-equipped regiment of the war,
the 83rd Pennsylvania, does not specifically mention blacking. The list
does mention "1,000 . . . Sacs du petit, or Small Sacks containing [among
other brushes for clothes, hair and buttons] shoe brushes" (Judson, History
of the Eighty-Third Regiment P.V. p. 26). It is possible that shoe blacking
rounded out the issue. It would appear from the accounts that some form
of blacking was available to soldiers, if only resorting to working ground-up
campfire cinders into axle or cooking grease and applying that. Army
Regulations also required that accoutrements be "whitened" as well as polished.
Long a misunderstood term today, "whitening" refers to the use of apple
cider vinegar as a cleaning agent. A part of the standard Army ration for
decades, vinegar was made available to Sherman's troops in Georgia as part
of the sustenance issue. Vinegar, as a mild acid, works rather well
as a cleaner of brass. Even better was the use of Leander Stillwell's "powdered
dirt" or some fine, powdery campfire ash. The mild base properties of the
ash, along with a mild abrasive action, provides an excellent duplication
of field-cleaned brasses. Either technique will enhance your overall "period"
look. For our "19th-century" purposes, nothing so overcleans brasses like
modern Brasso, Never Dull, and similar products. And don't forget to "whiten"
the finial of your bayonet scabbard!
Our modern concerns regarding disease and vocal objections of "significant
others" causes us to take more care of our table
furnishings than our ancestors apparently did. Use of one's dishes
in the tented field, along with periodic cleaning with very hot,
soapy water, will render these necessary items quite fit for use, while
maintaining their unique character.
1. Never expose your shoes to a high heat source (such as a fire). Shoes are made from animal skin, and are as susceptible to the elements as your skin. Trying to toast your feet next to a fire with shoes on is fruitless; your shoes will be ruined long before the beat can be felt in your feet. The rule of thumb if you must dry your shoes next to a fire should be "If it's too hot for your hands, it's too hot for your shoes!"2. Always air dry your shoes slowly, preferably with loosely crumpled newspaper stuffed inside. When dry, apply a commercial black paste polish (if needed) or treat with a commercial leather preservative. It is also likely that the old vets may have applied cooking grease to their shoes, as a water-resistant protection.
Treated this way your shoes can withstand many, many wet weekends.
3. Never allow your mud-caked shoes to dry before cleaning them! The idea that waiting for the mud (and shoes) to dry will make cleaning easier may end up shortening the life of your footwear. Soil, as it dries, will sap moisture and oils from the leather. Better to clean off the mud while your shoes (and the mud) are still wet, then dry your shoes thoroughly.
Haversacks are normally hardy creatures that only require some occasional
touch-up of the black "tarring" with commercial paste blacking. An experience
with different haversacks from different vendors is worth repeating here.
A product purchased from a well-known Southern maker required repainting
of the haversack at the beginning of each season. This product was replaced
by one offered by a familiar Wisconsin maker. The latter haversack has
required no maintenance for over six seasons: proof that high-quality goods
pay off in the long run.
NOTES: Most of the above advice and observations are very good.
We do find a few notable exceptions. DO NOT, I REPEAT - DO NOT -
DRY CLEAN YOUR UNIFORMS! All clothing should be hand washed in cold
water and air dried. DO NOT IRON! It is true that the boys
in the field often boiled their clothes. This was as much to remove
the "graybacks" and other vermin as to clean. Try this with your
expensive sack coat or trousers and only your 12 year old will be able
to wear them! Don't do it! Also, do not use Brasso or one of the
other modern brass polishes. As was originally done - use vinegar
to whiten and wood ash to polish. Do not use modern boot/shoe polish.
Use grease or fat (mink oil works well) and blackening. Ground up
charcoal from the campfire works well. BOTTOM LINE - USE WHAT THEY
USED!
Upon arriving at an event, all soldiers should immediately report to their ranking NCO and accept any detail assignments. A soldier may not leave camp for any reason without the permission of his superior. If a soldier is excused by his superior from staying in camp overnight, he should attempt to arrive in camp before reveille sounds and roll call is taken the next morning. Unexcused absence from roll call may result in the offending soldier being assigned extra fatigue duty. Soldiers may not leave an event unless or until they are excused by their superior.
Roll Call: All soldiers will fall in when ordered to do so. When in camp, soldiers will fall in with blouses fully buttoned, headgear on and hands empty. When in the field, soldiers will fall in under arms (with muskets in hand and traps on) at the shoulder, unless muskets are stacked. When the sergeant calls your name, the soldier will answer, "here".
First Person: All soldiers are highly encouraged to conduct themselves in a period first-person impression. First-person will be required for some events or portions there of. If you do not feel comfortable using first person, you shall restrict conversations to matters relevant to the period and not engage in conversation about modern day topics.
Other aspects of your impression: There are references elsewhere in
this guide relevant to creating and maintaining a correct impression.
We won't repeat all of those here. A word to the wise however: no
anachronisms are allowed. No wrist watches, modern jewelry, cigarettes,
etc. Long hair styles or those not common for the period are highly
discouraged (soldiers for the most part wore their hair short - it was
mostly a matter of hygiene). Modern "fad" hairstyles, hair coloring,
etc. are not permitted. As with everything else, if you have a question
- ask!
All modern (post war) foods, wrappings or containers, storage containers, coolers, etc. are strictly prohibited. The existence of fresh vegetables, fruits and "foraged items" are over represented in the hobby. The staple of the Civil War soldiers diet was issued military rations. On rare occasion the soldiers may have gotten a box from home, made a purchase from a sutler or have done some foraging. This was then, and thus should now be, the exception. Also, when a soldier does wish to supplement his army rations care must be taken to make sure the item is period correct and is appropriate for the time of the year, the scenario, etc. Soldiers would not have had fresh vegetables (potatoes, onions, carrots), ripe fruit, etc. in spring or early summer. Some of those items would be appropriate for late summer or early fall. For almost all of the events we do, soft bread and canned goods are inappropriate. Generally soldiers would only have had those in a fixed (e.g. winter) camp, not on campaign.
Okay - so what do I have in my haversack? The regular army issue ration usually consisted of a meat ration of bacon, salt pork, salt beef, salt horse or fresh beef. The salt pork had more actual meat then today's salt pork does. The soldier actually preferred bacon or salt pork to anything else. It was better than salt beef or horse and much easier to keep than fresh beef. The beef that was issued was not always the best, the butchers were not professionals and you were more likely to get a tough, grizzly chunk as not. The standard issue of salt or fresh beef was 1-1/4 pounds per man per day. Of salt pork or bacon - 3/4 lb per day. As with all rations, the men did not always get the meat ration and when they did, it wasn't always a full ration. Most members carry bacon for a meat ration but salt pork is acceptable as well. Do not slice the bacon or salt pork before going into the field, leave it in slab form, wrap in correct paper or cloth and slice as needed. The other rations normally issued were hardtack, coffee (usually whole beans - green or roasted) and sugar (use dark brown sugar). The normal issue of hardtack was 10 per day. Experience has shown that 10 is probably more than you will consume in a day. These items are carried in pokes, tins or wrapped in cloth, newspaper (must be period) or brown paper. Most soldiers had salt and/or pepper and maybe some molasses.
It would not be unusual for Vermont soldiers to carry maple sugar (not syrup) from May into mid (possibly late) summer. It was considered a precious commodity and was generally used up quickly, lest some of the pesky vermin (critters or his mess mates) get it. In addition to the above, the army occasionally issued (as they were available and generally in a more permanent camp - not on campaign): beans or rice or peas or baled hay (desicated vegetables). It would be incorrect to have more than one or possibly two of these items at any one time. The soldier on rare occasion would have received goodies from home, the sanitary commission or made a purchase from the sutler. There was generally little if any difference between rations for the infantry and artillery. However, the artillery may have had more fresh horse than the infantry!
All of the infantry soldier's rations that needed cooking were generally fried in the tin plate or canteen half, boiled in the boiler or cup, or roasted on a stick, bayonet or ramrod over the fire. Interestingly, Customs of Service states that since frying meat is unhealthy, the recommended method was boiling. We do know however that it was often fried. Sometimes a soldier would cook his entire three day meat ration upon issue. They would do this to prevent spoilage or when they expected to be on the march, not knowing if they would be able to stop long enough to cook. There are many accounts of soldiers eating their meat rations without cooking at all (and many died from disease and sickness)! We do not recommend this - eating your bacon raw may have an entirely too realistic effect! You can whittle out a piece of green branch for a dandy handle for your plate. Adding a wire bail to your cup makes it much more useful as a boiler. In a fixed camp there would more likely be small messes or cooks preparing food for the company or entire regiment. As with anything else, if you have questions watch how a veteran does it or ask. You will soon learn the knack of quickly preparing your army rations.
When it comes to cooking methods, the artillery impression will often vary from that of the infantry. Artillery wagons carried skillets (dutch ovens), grilling racks and pots that were generally not available to the infantry while on campaign. Therefore, communal messes were more common. The ranking artillery NCO will decide what the cooking impression shall be (individual, or a section or battery mess) and will advise his men accordingly.
Read more about rations and cooking in Billing's Hardtack and Coffee or Bull's Soldiering. These are available in paperback and are "must haves" for any serious living historian wanting to do an accurate impression!
Revised April 2001
The following list has been assembled to aid people in their search
for uniforms and equipment items. This is designed only as a guideline
based on information and experience. If an item is listed as high quality
that in no way implies that other items produced or sold by that company
are of sufficiently acceptable manufacture. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS check
with the Quartermaster prior to ordering. You don't want to wind up with
an article that will not be allowed in the field.
THE VERMONT CIVIL WAR HEMLOCKS RESERVE THE RIGHT TO BAN UNAUTHORIZED OR INACCURATE ITEMS FROM THE FIELD.
UNIFORM AND EQUIPMENT SUPPLIERS
Tim Allen
1429 Becket Rd.
Eldersburg, MD 21784
410-549-5145
Top quality civilian slouch hats
The Arsenal
Eric Hector
P. O. Box 621
Newport, NH 03773
603-863-6262
http://members.aol.com/usarsenal
High quality shelter halves, brogans, tinware, forage caps, muskets,
bone buttons, misc items. Good quality items. Eric is a member
of the Hemlocks and the 5th NH.
B&B Tin Works
P.O. Box 274
St. Louis, MO 63116
Quality tinware. Unknown if still in business?
Bainbridge Traditional Bootmakers
The Square, Timsbury
Bath BA 3 1 HY, United Kingdom
Boots and shoes.
Clients include Park Services USA and Canada. Have not seen any of
these items, but they have good references.
Corinne Brown
Brewster Academy
80 Academy Dr.
Wolfsboro, NH 03894-4115
603-875-5631
Uniforms, etc.
Fifth New Hampshire reports construction quality is good but make sure
material is correct.
F. Burgess & Co.
200 Pine Place
Red Bank, NJ 07701
Leather goods
C&D Jarnagin Co.
P.O. Box 1860
Corinth, MS 38835-1860
601-287-4977; fax 601-287-6033
Uniforms, tinware, knapsacks, bayonets, ponchos and blankets, leather
gear.
We have been using them as a source for shoes for some time; much of
what they offer is good quality.
C. J. Daley
Historical Reproductions, Inc.
105 West Green St.
Middletown, MD 21769
301-371-5792
Fatigue blouses, jackets, trousers, shirts, etc. One of the best -
but slow delivery.
Dirty Billy's Hats
7574 Middleburg Rd.
Detour, MD 21757
410-775-1865
Civilian and military hats.
Good quality; ask about the material in the sweatbands.
Dixie Leather Works
P.O. Box 8221
Paducah, KY 42002-8221
800-888-5183; fax 502-442-1049
Miscellaneous items.
Some items very good; catalog $6.00.
David Gates
RR 1, Box 35
Cambridge, VT 05444
802-644-5601
Firearms
David is a member of the Hemlocks and can supply Parker Hale Enfield
muskets.
Ray Hock
1610 Baltimore St.
Gettysburg, PA 17325
Overcoats, suspenders, wallets, housewives.
Have not seen any of his items, but he is recommended by the Fifth
New Hampshire.
Haentz Hatcrafters
20 N. Springfield St.
Clifton Heights, PA 19018
Civilian slouch hats
Fifth New Hampshire reports good quality.
Haversack Depot
1236 River Acres Dr.
New Braunfels, TX 78130
210-620-5192
Haversacks.
"Top quality haversack." Quote from The Watch Dog.
I. C. Mercantile
122 E. Jewel St.
Republic, MO 65738
Boots
Excellent quality.
Brad Keune
19 Pleasant St.
Rockville, CT 06066
203-872-4022
Forage caps, officers' belts, and officers' haversacks.
Good quality.
Robert Land
5 Columbia Dr., #139
Niagara Falls, NY
519-836-0747 (w); 519-836-6868 (h)
Boot- and shoemaker
Have not seen the quality but hear it is good.
Ken Mink
980 Highland Ave.
Gettysburg, PA 17325
Three-volume "Casey's Tactics."
Good quality.
Larry Nelson
1032 Fir Ave.
Provo, UT 84604
Cartridge boxes
"Very high quality cartridge box." --The Watch Dog.
S. W. Osman
5424 Elliot Ave.
S. Minneapolis, MN
612-823-4009
Gum blankets and ponchos
Excellent quality.
James Owens
2114 Belvedere Blvd #2
Silver Spring, MD 20902
301-681-7462
Excellent quality canteen straps, other leather items
Quartermaster Woolens
20473 Idaho Ave
Lakeville, MN 55044
612-469-6904
The Abraham Thomas U S Army blanket
Don Rademacher
1608 W. Pearl St.
Stevens Point, WI 54481
715-341-5893
(Note: temporarily out of business as of Mar 2001)
Shelter halves, knapsacks.
Considered one of the best.
The Regimental Quartermaster
P.O. Box 553
Hatboro, PA 19040-0553
215-672-6891
Enfield muskets.
Euroarms.
The Watch Dog
P.O. Box 4582
Frankfort, KY 40604-4582
Newsletter
These folks critique and evaluate reproduced equipment. Subscription
$7.00 per year; a must if you are concerned with the historical accuracy
and quality of your equipment.
Robert Serio
Missouri Boot and Shoe
Route 7, Box 207
Neosha, MO 64850
Footware
Top of the line.
Stephanie Waldron
Box 51
Cherry Valley, NY 13320
Sack coats and frock coats
Quality tends to be good, but get samples before ordering.
Vermont Civil War Hemlocks
c/o Sgt Henry (a.k.a. Steve) Wakefield
1312 Trestle Rd.
St. Johnsbury, VT 05819
802-748-2480
Federal issue shirts, leather items
Village Tinsmithing Works
P.O. Box 189
Randolf, OH 44265
216-325-9101
Tinware
Good quality items.
John Zaharias, Sutler
P.O. Box 31152
St. Louis, MO
Tin buttons, tinware, etc.
Good quality items.
Doug Grout Henry Wakefield
Dave Gates Herb Conly
(see member list for phone numbers, etc.)
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